Grom’s First Solo Surf Time



Groms. Young Surfers. Typically under 15. The Pacific.  At Pacific City. 
Water was pretty flat. 3-4 foot swells. Zero Wind. 1-2 other surfers in the cove.
About 25 surfers to the south in the larger swells all packed in together.   


Only one ingredient was missing from our normal Surfing Session.  A Coach.  So far this summer, they have only gone out with either their coaches or mentors.  Tonight – a new to them beach – solo. I’m not sure if you’ve had a chance to sit and stare at the Pacific – but take my word for it. It’s pretty big. Whales are breaching out by Cape Kiwanda’s epic rock. The Ocean is constantly moving – and as the summer winds down, the swells are pretty close together. They have had a lot of physical and academic education this summer.
They are ready. I am ready. The Sunset made it pretty spectacular. A moment sealed in time – um, especially with about 200 photos. Winking smile


Nate – 6’2” at 14. Loves to surf. Loves the long board. SUP. Learning to Surf with the SUP. Loves the flat water. Confident. Full of desire. Loves to get a few good rides in, and then enjoy just being on the beach or in the water.



Jon, age 11. Loves the short board. Skateboards.  Kicks it on the SUP – loves doing physical tricks on all boards – a lot of footwork. Likes the show of it all. He wants to hit every set, as many swells and waves as possible. Rocks it hard. Until the sun goes down. After 3 days on the beach, surfing 7 am til sunset, yesterday – his first question – “When do we go out again?”.

Two boys. Two personalities. A HUGE combined love of the ocean. 
Their coach said they are becoming true watermen.
This mom’s a little sentimental at watching them become men.



This was the “Do I have to come in?” look. I said no – surf til dark – and out he went.

About +Angie Wright

The Transparent Thoughts of an Unschooling Family of Boys - Answering the question - What DO you DO all day?
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